This finely crafted 8,100 Square' new construction home built for Steven and Jennifer Riley incorporates many fine features such as gloss black stair railings and spindles, and colored ceilings. All the Newel Posts, matching columns, and fireplaces, as well as all bathrooms and kitchen cabinetry were Glazed throughout the interior. All walls were painted using BHER Premium Plus Eggshell. A nice upgrade from the normal Flat sheen used in new construction. Due to the natural lighting, provided by the numerous large windows, and the spacious sized rooms we were able to utilize darker, richer colors - even on the ceilings. Jen was instrumental in utilizing the color chart to choose and match colors from room to room throughout the home.
Frequently asked Questions & TipsPlease call Brilliant Coatings for a more detailed explanation, or specifics for your job. 812-604-3651
Q. Do You Remove Wall Paper?
A. Yes, we do.
Q. You mentioned waiting 30 days before painting the
front porch you built, why?
A. We use exterior grade or Pressure Treated lumber for all outside building
requirements. Per manufacturers guidelines you may apply an oil based coating
on pressure treated lumber after a minimum of 30 days. You may apply
a latex based coating after a minimum of 1 year.
Q. Do I Stain or Paint my Deck?
A. Never, Never, Never paint an exterior Pressure Treated horizontal surface. Never, Never, Never. It will
peel long before the normal life of the paint, usually
the same summer you painted it. Always stain a
horizontal Pressure Treated surface. You may
paint Vertical surfaces (deck handrails rails and
fencing) but it is unfeasible to do this as you would
have to stain the horizontal surfaces. No need to do
both. The technology of Stains has increased
substantially in the last few years and while they still do not last as long as paint,
applied properly, many will will last 6 to 8 years. For what type and grade of stains
we use, give us a call.
Visit this link for more information:
Q. I'm confused do I need to prime my drywall?
A. We do not recommend Priming for flat sheens, unless it is a commercial
building, historical home or building, etc. For Eggshell and Satin we
recommend a primer for large or multiple rooms or wall areas. Most times it
is best for small rooms to just apply a 3rd coat of paint if it needs it, which is about
1/2 the time on new drywall with the sheen paints as they are less pigmented then
their flat counter parts. This of course depends on the color and type
of paint. Always buy a high quality paint.
Q. Do you paint Log Cabins?
A. No, we stain them. We may paint the chinking tho depending on the type of
material used in it's construction. Log cabins have several issues specific to
them. Give us a call and we can take a look and discuss what you have.
Q. What is the correct caulk to use for caulking around
my bathroom sink?
A. It depends, if it is new construction or a newly installed sink, use an Acrylic Latex
caulk such as TopGun 200 from the Porter paint store then paint over it when
dry. If you are not going to paint the walls, then use a silicone caulk. The first
method always is better, due to the fact that working with silicone is not easy.
Tip for using the silicone is to put down Blue painters tape on each side of the joint
to be caulked, apply silicone to joint, then drag your finger across it to smooth it
down uniformly, then remove tape. It makes a nice clean line if you are not a
professional and not used to working with Silicone. Also the silicone
caulk is much harder to remove without messing up the drywall, caulk removing
tool is sometimes a good option.
Q. I own several rental properties, and the ceilings in them still look
pretty good, can I get by with just 1 coat of paint?
A. Looking good is relative, if you haven't started applying the new paint you may
change your mind, once you do. The new paint will show you how faded and bare
your old paint has become (your old truck still looks good till you park it beside
that new one, this works with husbands and wives too). Now if it still looks
good when you start cutting in and you think 1 coat will be good then
what we recommend is to Cut in 1 time and let dry then cut in a second time and
then roll it out. This is completed this way to compensate for the fact that
brushing has a lower spread rate than rolling. Normally this is done this way only
in rental properties to cut costs and due to the fact that 1 coat will not
last but about a 1/4 of the time that 2 coats will. Using the existing color, and
flat paint only.
Q. The painter I hired said the plastic grids on my French doors (outside)
do not get painted. I say they do - who's right.
A. You are! He does not want to do them because they are plastic and have to
be primed and then painted with 2 topcoats and then the windows scraped if he
gets any paint on them. Obviously this takes time. If you do not paint them they
will yellow and look like - well crap. Don't forget to caulk around the edges of the
grids prior to priming, inside and outside.
Q. We have an existing Deck that is peeling. What do
you recommend?
A. Unfortunately we see this a lot. Your deck was done wrong but you didn't need to
hear us say it, I'm sure you already know. While we'll need to take a look at it to
be sure, we'll probably need to strip and re-seal it using the proper materials and
techniques. Please follow the link which explains all about Staining/sealing Fences
& Decks, then give us a call.
Visit this link for more information:
Q. Do you paint Stripes on walls ?
A. Yes, we do. Vertical, Horizontal, whatever you want.
Q. When you give an estimate, do you paint the whole
room or just the walls?
A. Basically it's how much time since the last paint job, and the current condition of
the room. For well maintained rooms we recommend painting the ceilings, trim
and doors to be painted every other time the walls are painted, although each job
is different. Costs, time and customer requirements are other factors.
Q. What is back rolling?
A. Back rolling or back brushing is a method used in conjunction with airless spray.
It is used in painting new construction ceilings, Outdoor Furniture, Shutters, and
even when Staining fences. Works really well with 2 men but is okay with 1
man. For example the items are first sprayed and then immediately brushed out
or rolled. This accomplishes 3 things - first spraying is the fastest way of applying
the product, second brushing or rolling works the product in much better
than spraying, and third the brush or roller will leave the correct texture in the
paint film.
Q. What size roller do I need?
A. For painters when it's a question for size, it's usually about roller length.
They come in 9", 14", and 18" lengths. Home owners normally use the 9", and
appropriate size pans. The pile, or Nap length is determined by the roughness of
the surface to be painted. For new/smooth Drywall use 3/8" up to 1/2". For Semi
Smooth, older wall & light textured drywall, use 1/2" nap. For Semi Rough
surfaces, and smooth Brick 3/4" nap. The roughest of surfaces Stucco, Rough
face block, 1" to 1 1/2"Nap. Always use the same nap roller (if possible the very
same one) for touching up, or re-painting a wall later on. Always use high end
Lambswool roller sleeves, and clean them out meticulously.
They will last a long time.
Q. We had a July 4th and my lawn is all tore up, does your lawn paint
turn it all one color again?
Q. I have had a roof leak and have a stain on
my Popcorn Ceiling.
A. Apply stain killer (you can use the spray can type for this) and then paint.
BEWARE - on "old" popcorn ceilings the popcorn may come off of large areas
when the paint wets the popcorn texture. You cannot really determine this until it
happens, it will sometimes come loose by rubbing your hand across it.
This may be your only indication. Here is some additional info on Popcorn
ceilings. They are easy but a little messy to remove if they haven't been painted
over. If they have been painted over and you want them gone it is best to sand
them with an orbital sander then float the whole surface with drywall
Sheetrock compound. This process is called "Re-Slicking" the ceilings.
Not really a do it yourself job unless you are experienced.
Q. We have years of smoke damage from heating with a wood stove. The
stove is gone what do you recommend for fixing the smoke damage.
A. Use a Chemical Dry Cleaning Sponge For Smoke & Soot Damage. Zinnser BIN
primer, (The oil or alcohol based only) then 2 top coats.
Q. We had a small leak (for a long time) at the water hose
connection fitting for the
washer. The drywall is
puffed up and has what
appears to be mold on it.
A. Correct diagnosis. It's called Toxic
Black mold and should be removed by a pro. Call Brilliant Coatings. The drywall and any
base board or framing members that has been
damaged or infected has to be cleaned, or replaced. See Mold headline in
the paint problems section. We'll seal off the room it is in, create a negative air
flow and then respirators, paper coverall, and gloves, in removing mold infected
items. Then bag it and haul it away. Next we'll replace the drywall and re-paint.
Q. I think I just bought a bad roller sleeve. I rolled out my dining room
walls and have fibers all over it in the paint.
A. Sorry bout that. A new roller should be broken in prior to painting, most people
don't know that. All it consists of is removing the loose fibers from the rollers by - wrapping your hand around the roller and rubbing in one direction
numerous times, or - by rubbing a strong sticky tape over the roller. Then wash
with dish wash detergent and wring it dry. A damp roller can be used right away to
paint Latex paints. Always use an older roller sleeve for painting any sheen paints
(whether latex or oil), eggshell, satin etc. You didn't say but I will assume you
used an eggshell or satin sheen, as this would not have happened so badly with
a flat paint. Sand and sand some more, if that doesn't work you may have to float
the walls.
Q. How do you paint the routered edges of MDF?
A. MDF or Medium Density fiber board is a great product that is used for
Shelving, Trim work, and Cabinetry. It's advantages are that it is denser and
stronger than plywood, does not bend or warp, and is considered a green product.
It is isotropic in that it has no grain, so it cannot crack, split, or warp on it's own.
The draw backs are that it is denser than wood which causes it to be heavy,
swells when water logged, dulls cutting blades faster than wood, and that the edges
or any machined areas absorb liquid and are hard to seal. MDF must also be
acclimated to the temperature and humidity levels in the area in which it will be
used, same as wood flooring. There are differing grades of MDF for
different applications, ensure you purchase the correct product for the job you are
doing. Now, to the painting, Sand all the raw edges, and machined grooves with
220 grit (make sure they are dust free) and then prime with Bin Lacquer
primer, sand again using 320 grit and re-coat the whole project with an oil based
bonding primer then top coat with Latex or oil based product.
Q. How much Paint do I need to buy?
A. While every manufacturer has a basic square ft. coverage rate, it is never specific
due to Brushing, Rolling, Spraying, what kind of surface you are
covering, Temperature, Interior/Exterior and other factors. We use 275 sq ' per
gal coverage as our general measurement. To start with, measure your area, for
instance a wall by Height x Width, 10 x 15 = 150. Then multiply that times the
number of walls if all are the same size to come up with a sq' ft of area to be
covered. Second coat will take approx 1/8 less paint to cover. Buy enough
for the first coat and that will tell you how much to purchase for the second
coat. Make sure you "Box" all the paint together for the last coat to ensure
uniformity.
Q. What is Hat Banding?
A. Hat Banding, or Picture Framing, ( not joint Banding ) is where the cut-in can
be seen a shade lighter or darker around the top and edges on the finished wall.
Can be due to cheap paint, allowing the cut-in to fully dry prior to rolling on sheen
paints, not having your paint boxed, working out of different cans during
the cut-in and rolling. Sometimes it may be the difference in texture from the
Brushing the cut-in and rolling out wall. Remember to always roll sheen paints
tight to the ceilings, walls and baseboards to try to alleviate this problem.
Q. What is Joint Banding?
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Q. How often do I need to clean my Deck?
We recommend at least once a year, it's called "Spring Cleaning". Wash off with a
hose and then use a mild soap and water solution and soft bristle brush for the
areas that need it. Sorry guys and gals but this applies to the Gutters, Siding,
Windows, the whole exterior.
Q. How long does masonry have to cure prior to
painting, or staining?
A. At least 30 Days
Q. How big a gap for caulk?
A. 1/8" to 3/16ths" on some areas in the interior and 1/2" inch on the exterior.
Anything on the interior larger than that needs a wood patching compound or
perhaps re-carpentered. On the exterior fill openings larger than 1/4" using
polyurethane rope (see Porter paint store), 2 part epoxy bondo, or re-carpenter.
Always allow caulk to dry overnight, and for the thicker beads allow
more drying time. Some painters will tell you that it is ok to paint over wet caulk
that it will dry, don't hire those painters, they also probably don't speak English.
Q. How to properly dispose of Paints and painting products.
A. In most every home there are cans sitting in the garage, or basement, that
have been there for years. The Paint store collects old petroleum based products
every summer for return to the manufacturer to be disposed of. Always leave the
labels on the paint cans. For latex cans just take the top off and let them dry.
Ensure you set them away from small children or animals. It may take a while
but even 1/2 full cans of paint will eventually harden. You can put in a hardener
from the Hoover Paint Store to speed along the process. Then dispose of the
hardened can of latex paint in your trash.
Tip of the Day!
Boxing paint - Always mix all cans of the same type paint to ensure their will be no color variations in the final product.
Got a hard job? Call Brilliant Coatings. The owner of this fine home in the Historic District said he had a hard time finding anyone who would tackle this job. Our team is well versed in figuring out how to paint the hard to reach, high, areas. We have the highest ladders of any company in town, 44 footers. We use scaffolding and walk boards where needed. For the places above that, all of our personnel are certified to operate, and trained in safety procedures for lifts and booms of all types.
Due to the nature of our job, safety has to be incorporated into every thing we do. We meet all OSHA workplace rules and regulations. From setting up ladders properly, utilizing Hearing, Sight and Smell protection tools, to using extra safety equipment such as Harnesses and Dyna brake assemblies, we do what ever it takes to make a hazardous work environment safe. Safety lectures are held on a variety of topics twice monthly. Safety issues are briefed prior to starting any job, and continuously while on the job. It is everyone's job to ensure all safety standards are adhered to at all times.
In addition to our Safety Training we also conduct Standard training on new equipment, products, and techniques & methods as they become available to us or needed by us.
Some interesting Articles:
This beautiful home, is the perfect example of a 3 color paint scheme. Siding is the main color, with the House Trim being the Secondary color, and the Doors and Shutters the Accent color. A pretty good example of the 60, 30, 10. rule in effect, as discussed previously.
Call today - For our schedule and pricing!
